An unconditioned basement is defined as an unheated basement with no significant heat-producing appliances or devices. The only heat comes through the floors of the living space above. If there is no need for this heat, the basement ceiling should be insulated to keep the heat upstairs in the living space if some heat is desired in the basement, see "Conditioned Basements" below. Basement ceilings can easily be insulated with unfaced fiberglass batts or blankets installed between the floor joists and held in place with wire, fishing line or spring metal supports called "tiger claws".
Insulating the basement ceiling will keep most of the heat upstairs in the living space. Pay particular attention to any water pipes around or near the perimeter, as they can potentially freeze in very cold weather. If you have an unheated garage with living space above, the garage ceiling should also be insulated in the same manner. A conditioned basement is one that is heated, either intentionally or due to the presence of a heating system, water heater, or other heat-producing appliance.
If the basement is intentionally heated, the temperature will be the same as, or close to, that in the living space. In an unintentionally heated basement, the temperature tends to be somewhere between that in the living space and that outdoors. In either case, the objective should be to contain that heat, by insulating the basement walls - not the basement ceiling. Any frame walls in the basement as with a "walk-out" basement above ground level should be insulated with fiberglass batts installed between the studs.
If the insulation has a facing or vapor retarder, it should face inward see "Exterior Wall Insulation". The only downside is that it will be very annoying to access any electical or plumbing that may be up there. There's a tremendous amount of plumbing and electrical. I just want to contain it to prevent it from being disturbed and not cause any vapor locks. Any issue if I just staple screening to the rafters? I could cut that infinitely more easily than putting up drywall.
My cellar is dry and I run a dehumidifier constantly for any moisture in the air along with an air purifier. I want to put a pool table down there and don't want the kids exposed to airborne fiberglass as well as to prevent them from poking the cue sticks into the pretty "cotton candy" as they call it. If you add more than an inch of foam board between the joists it wil act as a vapor barrier so be careful with that. And as a previous poster stated you only want a vapor barrier in the basement ceiling if there is ventilation such as in a crawlspace.
I've begun putting up fiberglass screening stapled to the joists. The electrical and plumbing is so complicated anything solid would be impossible to put up other than a hanging ceiling which would end up probably 6' off the floor. I figure the screening should prevent a vapor barrier while keeping the fiberglass from being disturbed and releasing particulates into the air.
I also keep an air purifier going down there and am in the process of sealing the walls and floor with Drylock Masonry Waterproofing. I never have water other than occasionally at the bottom of the sump pit. Indem Sie weiterhin auf der Website surfen bzw. Mehr erfahren. Ultimate Lighting Sale.
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Should I insulate the ceiling of my basement? Hi - Thanks in advance for helping! Please let me know if there are any strong concerns with this insulation approach! Thanks, David. Email Save Comment Featured Answer. Like 2 Save. Sort by: Oldest.
Newest Oldest. Yes, do insulate. At least R Put the vapor barrier side up against the floor. Like Save. Related Discussions What type of flooring should I use in my finished basement!!??? What about staining or treating the concrete and then using area rugs? Here are a few great concrete treatments.
R19 will make a difference. We all agree that "flat" should be the finish for the ceiling. I am still having difficulty in deciding between "Satin" and "Pearl" in the wall finish Thank you all so much! My husband is "priming" the walls as I type this! Does either of them meet IRC standards for a habitable space with an emergency escape and egress window? Like 1 Save. It may be significantly thinner than the blanket insulation you saw at the beginning of this list.
Still, you should be able to achieve a similar effect by stacking several of these 1-inch batts on top of each other. However, they would only fit into especially narrow joists. Additionally, you should keep in mind that these cotton batts come in 1-piece packs , so you can order exactly as many as you need. Lastly, I wanted to talk about products you could use to insulate any hard-to-reach areas around the ducts or close to the walls.
DAP sells a variety of expanding foam sprays in ounce cans for different areas and occasions. But the one I wanted to highlight is the MaxFill sealant , which was made to fill gaps that are over an inch wide.
You can even use it to add bulk to your drywall. Keep the applicator flush against it and move it down the length until the whole piece is covered. Wait for the foam to cure and attach the drywall as usual.
Otherwise, it might drip on the floor. Depending on what your basement ceiling currently looks like, your application process may vary. However, if, upon cleaning the ceiling, you decide that there are no structural vulnerabilities there, you could simply proceed with the insulation. After you insulate any air ducts or pipes, you can go in with the batt or roll insulation. After lifting the batts and pushing them into the ceiling, tug them back down until the facing is flush with the joist edges.
The slight compression should help them stay up. However, if building regulations require you to attach them more securely, you can do so now. Either tack the paper facing into the joists or use wires to hold everything up. Since basements are notorious for being the most humid rooms in our homes, you might want to attach a vapor barrier before the drywall.
The sheets of plastic are fitted over the insulation to protect it from any moisture that gets through the drywall. The sheeting can come 8. If you happen to nick the plastic, you can tape right over it to restore the seal.
And leaving the natural fiber insulation exposed would be even worse, as it would soak up all that moisture. So what can you use to cover up the insulation?
Aside from plain drywall, you could use anything from wood paneling, planks, and decorative beadboard to metal sheeting, tin or PVC tiles. For example, you can install sheets of MLV in much the same way you would put in a vapor barrier. Additionally, you could install resilient channels to decouple the drywall, sheetrock, or plasterboard from the ceiling joists.
Just fuse two sheets with a layer of Green Glue and attach them to the ceiling joists. On the other hand, you could construct a drop ceiling with acoustical ceiling tiles. Basically, your options are limitless. Your email address will not be published. Brand Name: Frost King. Share on facebook Facebook.
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